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Subwoofer FAQs
- What's the
difference between a woofer and a
subwoofer? These terms have become
almost interchangeable, and there is
definitely a gray area between the two.
The difference can be in the woofer
itself, or how the woofer is being used.
A raw speaker or "driver" that we call a
subwoofer generally has a limited
frequency response range, often not
extending above about 400 Hz. A standard
"woofer" can have frequency response
easily reaching 2500 Hz or higher. This
upper limit is a function of electrical
and mechanical characteristics; often
the large voice coil inductances on
high-excursion subwoofers limit their
high-frequency capabilities. It is a
matter of compromise in the design of
the woofer: trying to achieve good high
frequency performance generally will
cause poor low frequency and power
handling abilities, while producing a
powerful subwoofer with ultra-low
frequency abilities and high power
handling will not be able to play well
at higher frequencies. However, if a
wider-range woofer is used only below 80
Hz or so it could be called a subwoofer
due to how it is being implemented.
- What does a
subwoofer do? A subwoofer is used to
reproduce the lowest frequencies that
other speakers in the system can't reach
at full volume. In the most general
application, the subwoofer will work
with a pair of smaller speakers to
produce the bass that the smaller
drivers are not capable of reproducing
faithfully. While some media may not
contain much low bass information, many
types of rock, hip-hop, jazz, classical,
or electronica rely heavily on low
frequency content. In these cases, using
a subwoofer will help fill out the sound
and produce a more realistic experience.
In home theater systems, there is a
specific channel of sound specifically
designed for the subwoofer, including
most bass effects such as explosions,
gunshots, and rumbles. Most home theater
processors also contain settings to
divert all low frequency content to the
subwoofer, which frees the satellite
speakers to play much louder and with
less distortion.
- What is the
difference between an active and a
passive subwoofer? A passive
subwoofer contains only a woofer in an
enclosure with no amplification. An
active subwoofer contains an on-board
amplifier that will accept a low-level
input and usually contains electronic
crossovers. A passive subwoofer must be
powered by an external amplifier and
connected via speaker-level connection.
Many times this passive subwoofer
contains a built-in passive crossover
that sends the bass to the subwoofer
driver and passes the higher frequencies
to the satellite speakers. This
methodology is inherently difficult to
implement and will usually result in
very poor integration between the woofer
and the satellites. Using an active
subwoofer system will almost always
provide superior results due to the
greater control in matching output
levels and matching the crossover point
between the subwoofer and satellites.
- What is a
subwoofer plate amplifier and why would
I use it? A subwoofer plate
amplifier is a type of amplifier that is
usually used in making active powered
subwoofers. They are an aluminum plate
with inputs, controls, and heat sinks on
one side and the amplifier section and
other electronics on the other. They're
intended to be mounted into a cabinet
with the subwoofer driver, and have
features to optimize them for subwoofer
duty. By using a plate amplifier in the
subwoofer cabinet, the need for an extra
external amplifier can be eliminated,
which is very useful in home theater
situations. Other benefits of using a
plate amplifier are the ability to have
independent volume control from the
other speakers, a built in low-pass
crossover, and the ability to adjust the
phase of the subwoofer.
- Why is adjusting
the frequency that comes out of the
subwoofer so important? We want the
subwoofer to be a natural extension of
our left, right, or center speakers in
both volume and frequency. For example,
let's say the subwoofer plays from 150
Hz and down and the main speakers in the
system work from 40 Hz and up. Between
40 Hz and 150 Hz, both the main speaker
and the active subwoofer are reproducing
sound. This will cause these frequencies
to stand out as a "peak" in the response
of the system. These overlapping
frequencies will create "boom" in this
region that will detract from the
performance of the entire system.
Likewise, if the main speakers play from
150 Hz on up and the subwoofer plays
only below 50 Hz, there will be a large
"hole" in the response that will reduce
the impact and accuracy of the system.
- How is the
crossover properly adjusted? The
lowpass filter on most subwoofer
amplifiers can be adjusted between
roughly 40 and 160 Hz. As an example of
what it is doing, if we set the filter
to 80 Hz, it will produce everything
lower than 80 Hz. It is called a "lowpass"
crossover because it allows all
frequencies lower than the crossover
point to pass. Most home stereo speakers
can work at their best down to 60-100
Hz, so we would like our subwoofer to
begin making sound right about where the
main speakers stop. To find this
setting, get the system up and playing
music that has a good bass component.
Adjust the subwoofer's volume so you can
hear its output clearly. Adjust the
crossover knob back and forth through
its full range. As you increase the
cutoff frequency to the point where it
begins to overlap the main speakers,
you'll hear the system begin to "boom".
(If you have trouble hearing this change
while standing very close to the
subwoofer, go to the area where you
would normally listen and have someone
else adjust the knob for you.) Turn the
knob back until the boom just falls
away. Leave the knob set there. Optimize
the volume of the subwoofer so it
matches the main speakers, and you're
done. Once optimally set, your active
subwoofer will require no further
adjustment if used exclusively for
either music or home theater. You may
find that different settings work better
for each situation, so take note of
these. Because of this, often a remote
controlled plate amplifier is used, or
the enthusiast will have a separate
system for music and home theater.
- What is the best
way to get the audio signal to the
subwoofer amplifier? If your system
is a relatively new multi-channel home
theater receiver, it will have an "LFE"
(low frequency effect) or subwoofer
output. This is a single or dual-mono
RCA jack output and is the best way to
get the signal from the processor to the
subwoofer. The output level of this jack
will change in unison with the main
volume control of the receiver, meaning
that once you set the relative level of
the subwoofer it should always match the
main speakers. This jack also usually
has an adjustable output level that can
provide more or less signal to the
subwoofer, useful in "fine tuning" the
bass levels. Usually the default setting
of 0 dB will work well with most
subwoofers, but in some cases raising or
lowering this may be necessary.
Generally we want the subwoofer's volume
control to be set near 50%.
- I don't have a
subwoofer out jack, what other
connection can I use? The next best
connection possibility is using the
speaker, or high-level, connections.
This input on the plate amplifier
receives the signal that is normally
sent to speakers and converts it
internally into a smaller signal that it
can use. This can be implemented either
as a loop-through or as a straight feed.
When used with small main speakers, it
may be beneficial to route the speaker
signal through the high-level inputs,
and then connect the high-level outputs
to the satellites. This provides a 6
dB/octave highpass crossover to the main
speakers which will help protect them
from receiving too much bass
information. The other possibility is to
"parallel" the speaker input connection
with the feed going to your main
speakers. Because the input impedance is
very high on the high-level inputs, this
method usually will not strain the main
amplifier. This connection method can be
used with main speakers that are
relatively robust on their own, and if
they have a steep low-frequency rolloff,
decent integration between the subwoofer
and the mains is possible. Many people
try to use a "tape monitor" loop to feed
the subwoofer amplifier, which will
work, but the level will not adjust as
the main level is adjusted. Since you
have to re-set the relative subwoofer
level every time you use your speakers,
it becomes a very annoying prospect.
- Can I connect
another subwoofer amp to the low level
output? No you can't. There is an
active highpass filter in the sub amp
that rolls off everything below 150 Hz
from the signal output here. With this
high-pass output, a second sub amp will
produce very little if any bass from
this connection. This low level output
is designed to be connected to another
amplifier or receiver with full-range
speakers. If you need to connect a
second subwoofer amplifier, simply use a
"y adaptor" before the inputs to provide
multiple low-level signals.
- How are the high
level inputs used? The high level
inputs are generally used in stereo
systems having small speakers that
product little or inadequate bass. The
speaker wire from the receiver connects
to the input binding posts, left and
right channels. The subamp takes its
signal through a 1Kohm resistor on each
channel and sums the two. The high level
output is then connected to the
full-range speakers and has a shallow
highpass crossover at roughly 150 Hz.
The lowpass active filter on the subamp
will generally need to be set relatively
high, though this will vary depending on
the main speakers.
- Can I connect
speakers to the high level output, but
use the low level input? No. If you
don't use the high level input, there is
no high level output. Similarly, if
there is no low level input, there is no
low level output.
- Can I use one or
more of the plate amps with my DJ rig?
The plate amplifiers are generally
intended for home stereo or home theater
use, and are not ideally suited for the
rigors of continuous DJ duties. However,
if used responsibly with easy loads and
not driven to their maximum levels for
long periods of time, they will perform
acceptably in a DJ setup. The main
problem is overheating due to the
prolonged high levels of output. There
are many inexpensive pro-sound amps in
the market that are designed for this
use and will generally produce more
reliable results.
- Do I need two
powered subwoofers for my Home theater?
Unless the listening room is
exceptionally large, you should not. The
average listening room is about 1500
cubic feet. That is a room roughly 14'
by 14' with an 8' ceiling. A good
quality 10" or 12" subwoofer will
generally produce sufficient levels in
this size room for most listeners.
However, if more extreme output levels
are desired, or if the room is very
large, multiple woofers can be used to
achieve the desired output. Also, often
a single subwoofer will sound good in
some locations within the room, but
lacking in other locations. Using two
subwoofers may help "even out" the bass
response throughout the room.
- Can I shield my
powered sub so it does not affect my TV
set? Shielding the very large and
powerful voice coil in a powered
subwoofer is very difficult and often
impossible. If the driver itself is not
fully shielded, it is very difficult to
shield the subwoofer as a whole. There
are "bucking magnets" available that you
can attach to the back of the
subwoofer's magnet to help reduce the
stray magnetic field. While this does
not eliminate the magnetic field, it may
reduce it enough to prevent the field
from bothering a nearby TV set. Slight
changes in location or orientation will
often help greatly, as the field is
somewhat directional in nature and tends
to extend perpendicularly to the axis of
the driver.
- When I hooked up
the RCA cable to my receiver from my
subamp, it began to make an audible hum.
Is it defective? Likely it is NOT
defective. What you are hearing is
called a "ground loop" and is caused by
uneven ground potentials at various
locations in your audio system. These
potentials cause small levels of
electricity to flow through the ground
paths, which will often be amplified as
a 60 Hz hum.
- How do I stop it
from humming? One of the first
things to try is changing the outlet
into which the subwoofer power is
plugged. Since often a subwoofer is
located away from the rest of the
equipment, many times the outlet will be
on a different circuit or have a
different grounding point. Try
connecting the subwoofer to the same
outlet as the rest of your equipment via
an extension cord or power strip. The
next thing to check is the cable TV feed
going into your system. While this at
first seems like a silly idea, if you
consider the web of connections in your
A/V system, it begins to make sense.
Temporarily unhook the main cable
connection and see if the hum stops or
is reduced. If it does, the easiest
solution is to purchase a coax isolation
transformer such as our #180-075. If
this does not completely solve the
problem, try unhooking the connections
of different components in the system
and see if the problem stops. If it
does, consider using a line-level ground
loop isolator in that location. Our
#265-012 works well. If nothing seems to
quite eliminate all hum, the #265-012
can be used directly on the subwoofer
line-level feed and generally will solve
most problems.
- What if the
subwoofer hums when it is not plugged
into anything but the wall outlet?
If there are mechanical hums or
consistent loud hums coming from the
speaker when nothing is connected, then
it is likely defective. Contact customer
service for assistance.
- What if I hear a
buzzing noise? This is usually from
external sources such a fluorescent
lights and light dimmers. Fluorescent
lights radiate electro-magnetic
interference (EMI) that can get into a
bad or cheap RCA patch cable. Low
voltage light dimmers often put noise
directly onto the house electrical
wiring. Test by turning these types of
lighting off, making sure that the
dimmer has a complete "off" position.
Many of the "slider" or "rotary" dimmers
do not have a completely off position
even when at their lowest setting. If
this is determined to be the source of
the problem, try changing the circuit
into which the subwoofer is plugged. As
a last resort a line level ground loop
isolator has been seen to improve this
problem on occasion.
- What if I hear a
radio station? This is almost always
a bad patch cable with leaks in the
shield. Replace with a new or known good
cable.
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